Shearling Footwear?

Fur-lined sneakers from Boemos. Not sure what animal skin was used, but it must have been young. Fox?
Rabbit? Young lamb? The fur was soft, the suede equally so, but also thin and delicate, as if it would tear easily.

Shearling for the feet. I think this is one of the ultimate superficially superfluous extrinsic material luxuries one can indulge in. Never have I ever worn anything so soft and smooth on my (bare) feet. It's like people who claim silk undergarments are amazing. But unlike silk underwear, shearling is utilitarian: it keeps your feet warm and toasty, and if you live in subzero temperatures during colder seasons, it may even be a necessity.

While shearling refers specifically to sheep and lamb skin, fur-lined shoes are not new. The Inuit people of Northern Canada and Arctic regions have worn boots and moccasins made of a variety of animal skins such as sealskin, and tough caribou and moose hides to fend off the frigid weather for centuries—hell, most of the Inuit attire revolved around animals skins.

Much like the Inuit, the indigenous peoples of the Himalayas rely heavily on fur-based garb during winter to survive the cold. It's documented that Tibetan fur boots were decorated colourfully to match their equally vibrant outfits, which incorporated stones and beads of various hues, intricate embroidery and weaves, and other ornamental drapery on top of their sheepskin cloaks. One could argue that Tibetans pioneered shearling boots into fashion, or at least gave them life on top of their utilitarian value.

In Russia, peasants and soldiers alike donned knee-high shearling boots to keep frost-biting Russian winters at bay, where temperatures can dip below even -50°C. It's funny to see how shearling, now a fanciful luxury, was viewed back in the mid-1800s, as recorded in Bentley's Miscellany: 

"There is no doubt that the skins of animals, whether of sheep or buffalo, or more valuable furs, are great preservatives against wet and cold, but they are cumbersome, unsightly, difficult to dry, apt to get dirty and harbour vermin, and in the way in action or any other emergency."

And of Russian soldiers:

"The Russian troops wear sheepskins in winter, merely because they cannot afford better... Boots lined with sheepskin, made large so as to cover the trousers, and reaching up to the knees, are also commonly worn in Russia during winter."

The old-timey English literary magazine goes on to describe the entirety of what Russian troops wore, which today would be considered just about the most extravagant winter attire anyone could ever wear: head to toe in shearling, fox fur, buckskin, and buffalo hide, among an assortment of available mammalian skins and fur. Of course the point is to be warm, and in the scheme of laborious military work, it's no wonder animal skins weren't all that attractive. But I digress. My focus is on footwear.

The rich fur in these Boemos sneakers was long and thick, like an extra layer of socks. I never tried these on because I simply have no interest in fur-lined sneakers, at least not this style. I would've preferred a chunky athletic trainer.

It was these Italy-based Boemos All-Star-esque style high-tops that prompted me to think a simple "what?" They're at Winners in Downtown Vancouver, which, of late, has gotten some funky gear. But fur sneakers? Really? Shit, alright... Not a pervasive brand at all, a quick Google search shows that YOOX tops the first four results as the main purveyor of Boemos, with no indication of the brand's independent presence. Without any meaningful research, my only guess is that Boemos is a wholesaler and maybe manufactures for other well-known brands like, say, Common Projects or Greats' Italian-made line of shoes. Eleventy has a similar sneaker for ladies in their Fall/Winter 2017 line. I didn't think I would see fur-lined anything outside luxury retailers like Holt Renfrew, Leone, or Haven, so to see them so casually displayed at an off-price retailer surprised me.

Stefano Gamba real shearling sneaker boots ZX246. I originally thought they were from Rick Owens due to its simple black and white aesthetic—I wasn't far off, Though the price difference between them was about 10 times. These I've tried several times, and felt amazing on my feet. Originally seen at Winners Downtown Vancouver, Marshalls has several pairs in varying sizes, which excited me. I would love to get these, but another pair of shoes had my undivided attention.

John Fluevog "Ace Face" derby. I first saw this online on the Fluevog website and was curious about the nature of the "shearling" wrapped around the quarter. The sales associate at the Granville St. Fluevog told me it was real shearling, but the Gastown Fluevog told me it was synthetic... it felt like acrylic to her. She also pointed out that John Fluevog no longer uses shearling or any fur in any of their shoes, so it's more than likely it is synthetic. I haven't touched enough shearling to know the difference (yet), but upon further inspection there is noticeable stitching between the "fur" and the leather where they attach to each other.

Simons' in-house Le 31 iteration of the shearling high-top. I don't like the leather patch on the counter (heel). I know it reinforces a stress point, but it looks like a design flaw to me; should have kept the entire shoe camel sheepskin. It reminds me of Jeremy Scott's adidas Teddy Bear sneakers.

From Moncler, the aptly named "Vancouver" boot made from tan sheepskin shearling. Simple, timeless design with the right amount of ruggedess. It's chunky, but somehow still maintains a slender silhouette. The exposed but neatly trimmed shearling running up the quarter is just chic enough while preserving said ruggedness. The Vancouver boot is the quintessential Vancouver winter boot, if Vancouverites have CAD$650 casually lying around.

From Prada at Hold Renfrew. Left: haircalf and kid leather ankle boot; right: calf leather tasselled loafer with Alpine goat fur. Probably the most gratuitous use of fur I've seen... it's fashion, OK? Get with it!

Fur (and shearling) is a delicate subject. There's no doubt that the fur trade is cruel to animals, especially if they are young. Probably the cruellest of all is the harvesting of karakul pelts. The younger the lamb the more prised its pelt. That's all I'll say...

Nope, I was wrong. This is the most gratuitous use of fur, relatively speaking. On sandals? It serves no functional purpose. At CA$1,255 this screams "I have too much money to burn!" Wear this around the house as a house sandal? Around the pool? Slip on to throw out the trash? Go grocery shopping? However you wear this, just please don't drag your feet. Actually, just don't drag your feet.

Gucci leaves me speechless. I don't know how I feel about these "Princetown" slippers, which run between CAD$1,000 to CAD$1,200.. The fur serves literally no function but to say "I'm f-ckin' loaded". I believe kangaroo fur was used until recently, when Gucci decided to ban fur from future collections starting in Spring 2018. These are lamb shearling, I think. I think they are unreserved and tasteless. Something about the fur being right at the sole of the slipper... it's like it's being stepped on even if indirectly... It is symbolically undignified.

Gucci recently denounced the use of fur, and will cease (barring shearling, I think...?) beginning with their Spring 2018 collection. While Gucci is not the first designer brand to go fur-less, they certainly made a big splash about it in a PR move to court a new, younger millennial audience. The fabled Italian brand's second coming occurred in 2015 when Alessandro Michele—who introduced the world to the Princetown slipper—was promoted to creative director. Not since Tom Ford's tenure at Gucci, who is credited for being its saving grace in 1994, has the fashion house seen a revitalised and distinct, legacy-worthy identity.

Marco Bizzarri, Gucci's president and chief executive officer, is responsible for promoting Michele and rebooting the brand, doesn't think fur is "modern" anymore. It's not that Bazzarri doesn't have a point, I just think it sounds too shallow a reason to suddenly give up fur. Animal cruelty aside, fur is expensive and holds a stuffy image, even if those who wear fur nowadays are self-proclaimed "influencers" (ugh...) and no longer sultry women enrobed in giant mink coats and fox fur shawls of old (except you, defiant Yves Solomon). "New" fur is more subtle, relatively speaking, used as a lining or trim like many of the footwear featured in this post, or in parkas like those from Mr & Mrs Italy and Alessandro Sqarzi's AS65.

Seen in the wild. Christian Louboutin, everyone. This "Snow Black Flat" boot costs CAD$3,600.
Those silvery grey plumes are fox fur. This is hubris manifested.

I have mixed feelings about fur—please indulge me a moment. If one is to lambast fur sellers and fur wearers, then one must also direct that criticism to leather. Because what is fur, really? Fur is leather with the hair fibres still attached. So why the brouhaha about fur?

It's not just leather and fur, however. The down collected from ducks and geese have similar horrific practices, though arguably worse because the waterfowl are often alive when their down is harvested. That is because they will regrow their down for future harvest, and will continue until the "life cycle" of the bird has run its course, likely for their meat or livers.

The outrage must be equal.

I can't denounce the fashion industry's use of shearling or fur, because I own two shearling coats. I can't denounce the fashion industry's use of leather because I own an abundant leather products. I can't denounce the fashion industry's use of down because I own down-filled outerwear.

The other day I was at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver for work, and I passed by the Dior boutique, and in one of their display windows I saw this fur jacket. I immediately gravitated toward it with lust, if even only for a moment. My co-worker countered and said I would look better in the Dan Witz all-over printed bomber, and she isn't incorrect, but to me, there is something alluring about fur; it's romantic, it's raw, it's regal, it's elegantly aggressive, and most of all, fur is beautiful.

Yes, more so while it's still on the animal from which it belongs.

Is there a difference between the Moncler Vancouver boot, and the Louboutin Snow Black Flat boot? Of course. It's the ostentatious use of fox fur in the latter that puts form before function. It serves for the sake of vanity and nothing more, whereas the Vancouver boot is all about function. When we look back at the Inuit, or the Russian troops who used animal skins and furs as a way of life and to survive their environment, do we fault them? No, we don't. With technology today and synthetic substitutes like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, animal fur doesn't necessarily need to exist in fashion, and that seems to be the trend slowly being adopted until it becomes eventually the industry norm. But it will never truly go away. Purists will always want fur and will find a way to acquire it.

UNIQLO Metrotown: Finally!

Within a span of 41 days Metrotown debuted two of Japan's hottest retail exports to Western Canada. With the same enthusiasm we greeted MUJI, Vancouver showed UNIQLO the TLC that it deserves by showing up in droves. I had no intention of going on opening day, since I've witnessed the fandom that is MUJI's grand opening, but in my mission to track a particular pair of sneakers, I decided to take this side quest and check it out.

At first I saw a short line-up that started at the lower level and made its way up via the non-operational escalator. Groups of 20-30 people were herded into the store at a time but there was still a wait, so I decided to go elsewhere. When I came back about a half hour later, the line was gone and the stanchions open for free entry. So I took a gander.

UNIQLO grand opening at Metrotown. There was a steady stream of people piling in between the stanchions to gain access to the store. I was very patient to try and get a photo with as few obstructionists as possible. I'm happy with the consideration UNIQLO took when opening in Vancouver. The brand concept and the city compliment each other very well.

Taken mid-afternoon on opening day, Friday. While the lineup dwindled as crowd control eased, the rows of stanchions are remnants of the tremendous morning queue, and demonstrates UNIQLO's immense popularity in Vancouver. Not sure if the line went outside at any point in time, but no surprised if it did.

A quiet moment outside at the lower level, the commotion was all inside. The store is very open, with only load-bearing pillars flanking the sweeping entrances at both levels—hence the stanchions to bottleneck entry and control the crowd.

After walking down the stairs, this is the scene to my left.

With the exception of that little patch of free space on the right, the store was full with customers. While the floor was difficult to navigate at times, and people were bumping into one another, the atmosphere remained civil and everyone focused on shopping.

... in front of me.

... and to my right.

I love the simplicity of the central glass display on the ground floor. Using a big lenticular picture as a backdrop, there appears to be two different  images of False Creek during different times of the day, depending on where one stands; the layered style of each manikin reflecting the often unpredictable autumn transition, and the casual Vancouver vibe.

On the other side of the central glass display, another lenticular backdrop shows both downtown Seymour Street from Georgia, and the beautiful British Columbian landscape; the manikins communicating the utility and versatility of UNIQLO's "Vancouver + Lifewear" campaign. Indeed it is a natural union.

I personally was more stoked about whether or not UNIQLO Metrotown was getting its JW Anderson collaboration. Sure enough, they delivered. The entrance at the top level is dedicated to "Women's and Men's Special" and is where every piece from JW Anderson is on sale—with legit merchandising efforts, too! I'm hoping they do another +J release in the near future.

Floor plans are located throughout to assist with navigating around the just over 20,630 sq. ft. store.

Another point of excitement for me is the Christophe Lemaire-designed UNIQLO U line. Both he and Jonathan Anderson design eponymous mainlines that retail for ten to 20-times the cost of UNIQLO's merchandise. With UNIQLO U, you get a solid representation of Lemaire's design at UNIQLO prices—a good way to acquaint with his mainline.

UNIQLO U Hi-Cut Sneakers

The KAWS × Peanuts collaboration is sold out on the US website, and Canada doesn't even have an e-commerce platform set up; there were a few styles of t-shirts remaining on the racks from what I saw. These minor but quality Hypebeast-worthy collaborations is what makes UNIQLO different from other fast fashion retailers. A lot of it is simple t-shirts and sweatshirts, but the willingness of artists and other brands, like Disney, to partner with UNIQLO says something about its brand equity.

I didn't purchase anything on my visit. It was way too chaotic for me to do any browsing, let alone actual shopping. I spent most of my time looking at the JW Anderson, and trying to find my way around the store through the maze of people. Downstairs at the lower level, I looked through what was left of the UNIQLO U. The fleece "cardigan" sold out fast; not even featured online anymore, stupid trends... Cashier lineup was 50+ people long; likewise on the fitting room line. Opening day is never the best time to go, but it's always fun to see the fanfare and observe the mob.

The Runway at Winners

As Fashion Month draws to a close with Paris Fashion Week, retailers have been unloading unsold sales and clearance merchandise to make room for spring collections. Not coincidently, Winners concurrently launches their steeply discounted Runway “collection”. Unfortunately for me, after so many seasons I still fail to figure out when Winners releases their Runway collection. I’m not very bright for not putting their simultaneous occurrences together... Before I would only see what was left over after everything has been ransacked by early-bird enthusiasts and resellers. I also figured out that there are only three Winners locations that carry Runway for men: Downtown Vancouver, Park Royal, and, to a lesser extent, Cambie St. × 8th Ave.

What stock and brands they carry varies depending on the available bulk to buy. Sometimes they have tonnes of designer shoes (I still have episodes of regret for not buying that pair of Saint Laurent Paris black suede ankle boot a few years back), other times outerwear heavy; this season had a good mix of everything except shoes.

Like the general concept of Winners one must sift through a lot of excess before finding anything noteworthy. In the case of Runway, that excess comes in the form of Theory, Vince, rag & bone, and especially G-Star RAW. There are more of those brands than anything else, which, when you're going up against heavy hitting designers, you become the dregs of Runway. I went through the stuffed racks at Park Royal and Downtown Vancouver several times throughout September and saw some items I liked, or were of note.

Downtown: This Alexander McQueen moth embroidered sweatshirt in small, as of this writing, is still available at FarFetch for CAD$699. There is no scenario where I'd wear this, but still cool to see. I just think the novelty of the embroidered Death's-Head Hawkmoth wears off after one outing.

Downtown: Now this is a timeless piece. The original price of this made in Italy Diesel Black Gold chunky fisherman cable knit was still attached. Winners' price tag is a criminally bargain CAD$90—that's over 85% off! I'm usually a small, but I tried it on because I thought I could wear it big and loose, but the body was a tad too long and too loose for me; not the look I envisioned. If it were a medium, then I may have given in to temptation. A small? it would be neatly folded in my fall rotation.

I said rag & bone, but that's not to say they didn't have some nice pieces. It's just all the henleys and patterned button up shirts got in the way of this 100% cashmere jumper. It was soft and cushy on the body, and in my size, though I don't think the "made in China" label justified a still-reduced CAD$300 tag. I have a feeling this is from many seasons ago. Would totally consider buying if it dropped another 50%. Comparable cashmere sweaters go for CAD$525.

Park Royal: There was a rack of FENTY PUMA virtually untouched mixed in with some regular PUMA apparel. The only reason I saw this was because the rack was next to the men's Runway. The pencil skirt ran for about CAD$235, while the side lace-up sweats for CAD$200, and the Kimono Tricot Track Pant (not pictured) for about CAD$285. At Winners? CAD$60 for the skirt and lace-up sweats, and CAD$70 for the track pants. I want that damn skirt...

Park Royal: One of the more subtle but rich finds were these John Smedley knits. Known for their knitwear, John Smedley has been around for over 200 years, though few Canadian retailers carry them. I've only every seen and read about them on the internet, so to my surprise when I see them in person. This grey cotton knit is, I believe, their Hatfield pullover, which goes for $200 on Mr Porter, though in different colours. FarFetch has a different coloured Hatfield on sale for CAD$179, down from CAD$358. Winners is selling this one for CAD$70 or CAD$80, if I recall correctly. There were several other styles on the rack all going for the same price. I'd have gotten this grey one. If only people were aware, I think these would have been sold immediately.

Downtown and Park Royal: Some McQ bombers. The one of the left is available on YOOX for USD$650 (CAD$812.40). Winners priced it at CAD$600.

The beautiful MA-1 style bomber on the right is no longer on sale online, but Lyst last saw it on MatchesFashion for USD$571 (CAD$715.55). Presumably that's the sale price. Winners is selling it for CAD$700 if I remember correctly.

Downtown: Right at the entrance next to he ladies Runway/Contemporary are designer bags. I don't care for MCM. Most of their signature bags are superfluously gaudy; the logo generously splashed like a Jackson Pollock, though that's a reason why some people like them, not unlike the Louis Vuitton Damier or monogram phenomenon. This Dual Stark in Munich Blue went for CAD$800. Starks on FarFetch run between CAD$1,100 to CAD$1,450.

That is not the say the giant "FENDI" embossed across the bottom is any better, it just screams in a less attention-seeking manner. Winners definitely overpriced this Fendi backpack. At CAD$2,400 it's closer to retail price. Some of the current "Bag Bugs" or "FENDI Faces" backpacks retail for less than this bag is on "sale" at Winners. FENDI  > MCM.

Downtown: This all too adorable FENDI double micro baguette. Original Winners tag was for CAD$1,300, but some inconsiderate bum broke the shoulder strap so it was discounted a further 50% to CAD$650. There are many models of the double micro baguette, which run between CAD$2,280 and CAD$3,490. Should have taken a photo of the other side.

Marshalls: Still part of the TJX family! Marshalls does not carry any Runway for men at all, but they tend to have a decent shoe selection. The Saint Laurent Paris skeleton slip-ons were priced at CAD$250. LN-CC listed retail price at $695. According to Polyvore, SSENSE had it for CAD$335; sold out at Bergdorf and FarFetch, Don't really care for these glorified VANS. They aren't those damned zip ankle boots!

The Lanvin hightops on the right are meh; they look like Deisel hightops. Originally CAD$400 Winners price; clearance price of CAD$296.

These Moncler Horace chunky trainers are a sight for sore eyes. They go for CAD$626 on FarFetch, but Marshalls is selling them for half off! In my size! Those thick-ass soles boosts me to 6'0" even. I wish I could say I own these... The last time I was this excited at Marshalls I scored a pair of black Sandro TX-01 trainers for CAD$50.

Park Royal: I was really feeling this Engineered For Motion puffer coat. It would've been a smart addition to my business wear. This went for CAD$500

Downtown and Park Royal: Ah, this is the grail/unicorn piece! This Moncler Gamme Bleu reversible puffer actually came off the runway, but from the Fall-Winter 2015 collection—it can be seen carried by the model in look 28. This is one of those "I don't need it but I (desperately) want it" items. CAD$1,500 before VAT is still steep, but for Moncler Gamme Bleu it's (almost) a steal. Depending on where one looks to find something comparable, a Gamme Bleu puffer can run between CAD$2,860 to CAD$3,460 (SSENSE).

Love. This. Praying it will go on clearance soon as there is only one in my size. I would never have guessed that Moncler Gamme Bleu would make an appearance in the racks, so haphazardly hung on the hanger among lesser brands.

The next Runway won't be until the next Fashion Month, but I'm happy I finally figured out the cycle and can see some of the neat and unexpected items that come through. As some designers go rogue and show on their own terms, I reckon Winners' Runway collection may be a bit more spread out and sporadic as retailers unload to meet supply—or not, which is fine by me! Until next season!

Ciao!