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Monday 13 February 2017

JAPAN UNLAYERED II

I was so eager to revisit the JAPAN UNLAYERED exhibition I went back the next evening after work (many couples on dates happening at this time). While I toured all the displays I felt my first visit was too MUJI-centric, which wasn't necessarily a bad thing but I wanted to give some love and attention to all exhibits.

First off—the second level. The entire second floor is dedicated to architect Kengo Kuma. It displays a selection of his archive from around the world, his collaborations with exhibition sponsor Westbank, and design concepts of Alberni, the project being promoted between him and Westbank (Peterson is there, too).

Layering
The most interesting part of this tribute for me is the "Layering" exhibit, which features many things, each panel depicting different Japanese art forms; precise craftsmanship, especially in woodworking; philosophy on nature, space, and spiritualism; how they all relate with one another, and how they can be integrated them into everyday living. The result of understanding how to harmonise these (abstract) ideas are a beautiful explosion of eye-candy. Unfortunately that's all we get—images.


"Layering", the art of Japanese space-making

Given the direct lighting focused on each panel any pictures I took were either too dark or overexposed, unfortunately. Either way, they're meant to be enjoyed in person. The descriptions printed for each "layer", however, are well written and those I did capture. This one is my favourite.



Kigumi is a part of the exquisite art of Japanese woodworking and just one of many complex methods used. The description is vague, secretive, and unrevealing, much like the culture from whence it came. It's only with imagery (below, which were part of the kigumi panel) that one can begin to grasp the idea of how the Japanese view the use of wood in not only architecture, but also in art.

What is implied and omitted from the panel is kigumi does not use nails or any other external source of reinforcement of the wood. It is purely through interlocking joints and brackets that structures are held together. There are miniature models that use a simplified version of kigumi but they don't do it justice.

The Japanese temple (functional architecture; apologies for the low resolution) and the swimming pool concept (artistic architecture) of the Alberni are prime examples of the possibilities of woodworking, and that's how all the panels were presented: a concept example from the currently under development Alberni, and a source example from Japan. Both images play well with one another because the Alberni is a shared vision between the Japanese architect and its Canadian partner, and thus the ideas were modified to suit a western audience.

Also present in both pictures is the idea of new and old, not just in styles and time period, but in physical age. The temple's weather-beaten wood has slowly developed a beautiful patina over many years, dare I say decades or possibly longer time intervals. If the conceptual art structure over the swimming pool ages like the temple, how beautiful would that look? The joinery will also tighten over time, the joints and brackets strengthening their hold, and the knowledge of knowing that the entire structure is held together with its own strength is symbolic in and of itself. Kigumi is just one of the artistic and functional ingenuities of the Japanese presented in the Layering exhibit. I could write a piece on all the panels.

BEAMS Japan
The BEAMS pop-up is incorporated in the giovane café. If it wasn't for the giant BEAMS adhesive wrap on the refrigerator I would have missed it. The store is unassuming but the whimsical products speaks for itself. I don't have much to say except that I want everything.


I'll eventually pick up a copy of this book. From what I can tell flipping through quickly it's filled with colourful, vibrant imagery.

My impression of BEAMS has always been their clothing line, and while I knew they sold non-apparel items as well it wasn't until this pop-up that I realised they are a lifestyle brand with a wide product portfolio. I can't say I wasn't disappointed, however, because I was expecting more clothing on display than the limited selection of sweats available (above). But I understand that this pop-up was curated with the Vancouver audience in mind. It's a good selection given the casual nature of this city and its focus on lifestyle and culture.

This little corner of Porter × BEAMS bags was nice to see. I've been wanting to pick up a Porter bag myself but just haven't found the right one. They produce so many styles, sizes, colours, series, limited edition options and collaborations to choose from, and while I didn't pick up any of these in the BEAMS pop-up I was inspired to look intently and I ended up buying a waist bag from their VERVE line, which I should receive within the month.

Coming back from my tangent, these are the highlights from my visit to JAPAN UNLAYERED. There are other aspects of the exhibition I didn't cover, like the other half of the Kengo Kuma tribute, "Small to Large"; the reservation-only Gozen, a four-plate single course lunch served by two Japanese chefs (one of which runs a two Michelin star restaurant) at the cost of $62+VAT/fees per person, limited to 15 plates per day, and sells out fast (I may keep trying); and a few other simple exhibits that would make this post way too long.

I mentioned in my first post the fleeting nature of pop-ups, but I think it's worth mentioning again. I likely won't write another post about JAPAN UNLAYERED, but it feels like I can't take this exhibition for granted. I've been back a few times between the first and second post and will likely go back (I don't know why), because I want to discover something I didn't see before, or experience the Gozen, or the Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience. The exhibition is halfway done, so I still have time!

Sunday 5 February 2017

Thrifting Adventure: Big John (Dad) Jeans (ノಥ益ಥ)ノ

Big John Jeans is one of Japan's oldest denim brands. It pioneered the introduction of
Americana to Japan after the Second World War.

Big John, then Marou Clothing Co., started importing Made in USA goods to eventually
manufacturing American-style clothing for the Japanese audience.
I started thrifting and buying vintage about two-and-a-half years ago when I moved into my current house. There's a Value Village (henceforth, VV) across the street and I visit every so often looking for deals and rare finds. Since it was snowing heavily today going anywhere far was out of the question. I wasn't looking for anything in particularI never do, especially when I go thrifting. That's the thrill of treasure hunting! The other thrill, though this one frustratingly so, is finding amazing items that aren't in your size, or don't fit properly... which was what happened today.

After 2½ hours of scouring and trying things on I ended up buying a charcoal Gloverall Morris Duffle Coat for just under $35 after VAT. Apart from some mild pilling and a minor tear in the lining the coat is in amazing condition. This is the second duffle coat I got from VV; the first being a rare camel from The Scotch House, defunct since 2001, for the same price. Ahhh... the high I get from finding gems like these, and the possibilities they contribute to my wardrobe. So why the angry crying face? The photo on the right, that's why.

This VV's denim rack (though arguably all of them...) is full of crap most (all) of the time, like fast fashion brands or cheap Levi's with the parchment patch—jeans that aren't worth thrifting because they are barely worth buying at full price. It's not like I need another pair of denim either, but I wanted to do a good run-through of the men's section (hence 2½ hours). There was a pair of Lee Union Made sanforised jeans, and a pair of poorly taken care of raw Evisu (it was folded weirdly resulting in the left leg having a long diagonal faded crease, which I'm guessing was the reason it was donated because otherwise it was in good condition). The pair that caught my attention, however, was this pair from Big John.



It may look like any old pair of Levi's but it was unique in subtle ways. I don't know my denim weights by heart, but these were heavier than your average mall offerings; I'd say on the higher end of mid-weight range. They were stiff, too, despite the heavy wash, but were malleable when worn (VV doesn't wash their incoming donations. Ew, but now you know). The reasons why I call these Big Johns dad jeans are because of its

  1. high rise; the waist hits right below my bellybutton
  2. straight leg cut
  3. uniform vintage wash
But damn it if they aren't the coolest dad jeans I've ever seen!

#Japanesedoitbetter

The raw selvedge 501s I'm trying to break in on the right

The thread used to construct this pair of Big John is noticeably thicker than the 501s I wore. The branded copper rivets are a nice detail, too, and you can tell from the slubs on the Big Johns that the denim is thicker than my 501s.


Beautiful patina

That's one thick-ass piece of rugged leather

Coveted MADE IN JAPAN
It's a no-brainer. Why wouldn't I snatch these?

Depending on the brand, I am a 29 or 30 waist. The price is mind-blowing when you consider a pair of new Big Johns runs from $200 to $300 USD retail price. So why didn't I pick these up? They were tight on my waist.

(ಥ﹏ಥ)

Standing could be bearable after a while, but when sitting the waist was restricting and uncomfortable. I could breathe, but I would be aware of the waistband digging into my belly (or it could mean I need to lose weight). I'm tempted to go back and check them out again. I mean, they could loosen up in the waist, right? There has to be some give left, I just need to break them into my own body... right?
.
.
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and to add insult to injury...





Oh FFS...

This was a size 54 Italian, which translates to 38/39 US. They were practically new. I spent a minute examining the pants and it could've come straight off the Brunello Cucinelli rack. And this is the frustrating thing about thrifting. There are some unbelievable things to be found, sometimes by accident, like these Cucinelli flannel jean-trousers, which wasn't in my size range. I just happened upon it when I saw that beautiful brown patch and prayed that it was hung on the wrong size rack, but alas... disappointment.