Taking Care of Raw Denim: The Sun

I'm not a denim head by any means but when it comes to caring for raw denim we share the same philosophy: no washing for an extended period of time.

I've had my 501s for a while now but aren't even close to being worn-in since I don't wear them often enough, let alone every day. They've gotten softer though, evidenced by its droopiness, which is a good sign. Whiskering is evident on the crotch and a few creases behind the knees, but nowhere near honeycombing. Otherwise fading is minimal and the colour distribution remains uniform.

How long to wait before your first wash depends on who you ask: purists insist never; aficionados wait at least one year; and enthusiasts around six months, but this is purely my conjecture. One uncompromising condition, regardless of time period, is the denim should (must) be worn (almost) every day from day one until you finally decide it's time to wash. It builds character, for you and the jeans.

Odour is the number one concern of the raw denim regimen, especially if you wear yours every day. There are many methods proposed online from putting your denim in the freezer for hours or days (I don't believe in this approach) to soaking them in a light soap or detergent solution for 30 minutes (hand agitation optional), or even just tossing them in the washing machine on the short or delicate setting—proceed at your discretion.

The inside of your jeans is always in contact with your skin, meaning the build up of dead skin cells, sweat, and oils provide fertile grounds for bacteria to fester. Turn them inside out before sunbathing your raw denim. Lay them flat or hang them; either way it's imperative the sun's rays come in full contact with the fabric because UV rays work best on contact, so any area untouched will be out of UV's wrath.

My preferred odour killing method until my first wash is to leave them out in the sun. Ultraviolet light kills enough bacteria and germs to rid of any odours starting to manifest in or on your jeans, leaving behind that warm sun-kissed scent. I say "enough" because ultraviolet light works best for sanitising air and water, which they have special machines for. Ultraviolet light directly from the sun won't be nearly as effective as UV light machines because it passes through the ozone layer reducing the amount that actually makes it to earth's surface even on a clear day, so ideally the jeans should sit out in the sun for a while.

This is where I explain what "for a while" means. I waited for nearly 18 months (a testament to how seldom I wear them) before I decided to sunbathe my 501s, and that's because it started developing a gnarly funk so I left them in the sun for two hours each side (turned inside-out, of course). Admittedly, that didn't quite do it so I did another session—this time for three hours on the front, again inside-out, which seemed to do the job. My point is start early. If you just started wearing/breaking in your raw denim and want to keep them fresh, leave them in the sun whenever you instinctively feel like you need to wash them. That way you can regulate the bacteria growth and delay your first wash.

Don't forget the sunbathe the outside, too. Another property of sunlight is colour degradation—like bleach, but at a snail's pace, so don't worry too much about colour loss if preservation is your goal.

Many factors affect how often and how long to sunbathe your raw denim:

• Denim weight: a lighter denim (12 oz. or less) will require less time in the sun than a heavier denim (above 16 oz.)
• Frequency and duration of wear: all day every day, or once a week for a few hours?
• Lifestyles: active vs sedentary
• Your physiology: do you sweat easily and profusely?
• Strength of the sun during seasons; a hot sunny summer day is more effective than a cold sunny winter day
• Proximity of where you live to the equator (maybe I'm stretching now)
• Laying your denim flat to air out after wear is better than folding them up right away

I will delay the first wash on my 501s as long as possible mainly because I don't wear them enough, but I don't believe in never washing them. The beauty of raw denim is the very quality that makes them somewhat high maintenance, but the results that come from the effort are more than worth it when you consider that, yes, many people may own the same pair you own but when it emerges from the chrysalis that is new raw denim your pair will be uniquely yours. Raw denim is a subtle wearable personality, for those who pay attention.

When Should I Pop My Collar?

When wearing outerwear. That's it.

Well, goodnight everybody!

Seriously though, it's hard to explain why beyond that upturned collars on outerwear look good in the same way popped collars on, say, a polo shirt don't look (as) good... which is a poor explanation. The best way I can put it, I suppose, is a properly popped collar frames your face, and it flatters everyone; it's a tricky balance between affectation and utility—yes, popped collars serve a purpose.

The modern popped collar was popularised by René Lacoste, who flipped his collar when playing tennis to keep the sun from reddening his neck, though it's turned down otherwise, but prep culture en masse, with a few exceptions, arguably ruined the look. Similarly, outerwear collars serve a identical purpose but also provide a little bit of extra warmth during colder seasons.

I love soft unstructured collars, they're so casual and nonchalant. When I flip my collar I never go full flip (i.e., with the ends standing) but just the nape of the neck and let the rest fall as it may. Popped collars shouldn't necessarily be symmetrical, and that's the point--affectation vs sprezzatura (I'm trying).

Denim jackets are one of the most versatile wardrobe pieces everyone should own. They are all-season friendly because you can throw it over a t-shirt, or layer over or under other pieces. This also makes denim jacket collars the most versatile to pop.

Scarves and upturned collars complement one another during that summer-autumn transition. Should you choose to drape it rather than wear it, a popped collar is Parisian chic.

Leather and suede jackets look very much at home with flipped collars. In fact, I think they look unbefitting with their collars laying flat, almost like the jacket is missing something, or the outfit is incomplete and lacking. Maybe I'm exaggerating, but leather jackets—even when dressed up—are the rebel piece, as they should be. So I ask, why lay the collar flat?

The collar on this heavily rugged napped suede jacket begs for life! Because the suede is so heavy, the collar stands with ease and looks slick from the front and the back.

The flat collar on the left doesn't look so bad, but the upturned on the right just looks so much better. Same look with a slight tweak of the collar (OK, I loosened the tie, too.) but the difference is notable.

If it's cold enough to wear an overcoat it's cold enough to consider turning up the collar. What makes thick topcoats and overcoats work so well is their, well, thickness. Upturned collars look natural on heavy coats because their function is to keep you warm; they envelop and drape over your body, so naturally, the collar should do the same for your neck.

I love topcoats because they are the perfect seasonal outerwear option to pop your collar. It not only looks stylish but keeps the wind from breathing down your neck. Scarves are a must when it's cold out, but the upturned collar adds an extra layer.

Admittedly the collar and lapels on this vintage Ulster-esque overcoat is over the top. The collar looks perfect laying flat as the spread and slope of the collar already frame my shoulders, neck, and head. When flipped, however, I look like an countryside Dracula. I would caution wearing this with the collar popped unless I was bold enough to drape this...

Aaaaand it's draped ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Who says you have to wear your coats all the time? Soft-shouldered, raglan sleeved, oversized, unstructured, and cozy like a blanket, some coats were made to be draped. For this particular coat, because it lacks lapels, the upturned collar doesn't look as good (like an oversized polo shirt). Just as the collar frames the face, the lapels frame the collar.

Be wary of smaller collars and shorter lapels as the lapels will stand with the collar once flipped. The resulting aesthetic is weakened and the collar's utility is lessened due its smaller profile.

Small upturned collars have a place but are more affectation than function—the maroon felt lining the underside of the collar was meant to be shown off.

What I love about the collar on this coach jacket is the way it curls softly into itself rather than falling flat against the chest (again with the soft unstructured collars). As much as I like this upturned collar the fabric itches like crazy. I would get a red neck one way or another.

I didn't include sport jackets, odd jackets, or suits because I can't pull them off and I don't have the proper suits/jackets to style. Well, I tried with the forest green Harris Tweed jacket but that was it. Besides, popping a suit jacket requires a lot of panache, which is why the best examples can be found on the runway! Designers will flip whatever collars they want and are a great resource for your own experimentation.

Ultimately, popping your collar is a move to make at your discretion. There are abundant detractors to the collar flip—even with outerwear—and for good reason: unless weather conditions call for it, it's unnecessary, and depending on the collar type it may serve little use even when flipped. Personally I think upturned collars are stylish, but there are points to observe when considering the move:

• Flip outdoors vs indoors
• Flip for function first (i.e., scorching sun, heavy precipitation, strong winds, cold temperatures)
• Scarves and upturned collars complement each other
• Flip the nape of the neck and let the rest fall as it may
• Popped collars frame the shoulders, neck, and face
• Outerwear collars are safest to start exploring upturned collars
• Pay attention to collar/lapel sizes and fabric weights, they affect how popped collars sit
• Asymmetry is desirable

If you want to rock the popped collar hard, guidelines be damned, like all style moves go forth with confidence and strut your stuff—the world is your runway!