The Knit Polo

(first published May 20, 2016)

Everyone owns a polo shirt or two, or three, and likely in many colours—it’s a wardrobe staple after all, and while most people are familiar with the pique cotton variety I would make a case for the knit polo.

Exuding 70s vibe and charm the knit polo is a dressier form of the sport-born short-sleeve. What I like about the knit, and prefer over the traditional pique, is the looser construction. It drapes over the body naturally and rests with soft creases and folds pique cotton simply cannot replicate. The ribbed hem and sleeve cuffs, while not exclusive to knits, produce an interesting silhouette by allowing that beautiful draping to occur.

Left, S/S 2014 look 5; right, S/S 2016 look 17; I couldn’t wear the polo on the right, but I love it.

Above are knit polos from David Hart’s collection. His interpretation of the 70s is impeccable, retaining qualities like long wide collars and intricate colour blocking without looking anachronistic. The soft outline is apparent in both looks especially on the shoulders and around the waist where the fabric sits folded over the hem.

Left, F/W 2016-17 look 14; right, F/W 2014 look 2

The way Hart styles his collection reinforces just how chic the knit polo is. Creased and pleated trousers complement the elegance of the knit polo; footwear ranges from brogue wingtip oxfords to clean white sneakers and leather sandals. The overall impression of each look breathes sophistication while remaining ostensibly casual. Replace the knits with piques, jerseys, or wovens however, and the looks seem lacking and out of place, awkward even.

Supreme S/S 2016

Not a Supreme fan, but the shape and cinnamon colour of this knit cotton polo caught my attention. Not sure if it’s the way it’s laid out or because of the longer sleeves or what, but the silhouette looks generous and billowy. I’d love to try this on.

Brunello Cucinelli, from FARFETCH

Brunello Cucinelli is about as luxurious as knit cotton gets. The sand base and white stripes make this an instant warm weather classic.

Arpenteur, from UNIONMADE

This versatile nautical striped linen knit from Arprenteur, a French brand I’m new to, features an uncommon cutaway collar which stands out especially given its traditional shaped body and longer sleeves. Like the Supreme knit I want to try this on to see the silhouette.

Sunspel

This comfortable looking gorgeous merino wool long sleeve from Sunspel is practically a sweater with a polo collar (love the drab “marsh melange” colour). The long sleeve knit polo has a grown-up feel, but can still look youthful. Push the sleeves up and pair with Bermuda shorts or tapered cropped trousers and still looking refined as ever (like the David Hart look above).

Left, cotton; right viscose/acrylic mix; both from Zara

I’ll always prefer natural fibers, but synthetics can be good too, and often come at a lower price. The two polo shirts have noticeably different silhouettes, which I think shows the possibilities with knitting over weaving.

Orley

I’m liking the colour scheme of this Orley merino wool knit. The beautiful burgundy foundation, the bold stripes and bright orange placket/collar make this quintessentially modern retro.

GANT

Cotton/silk blend from GANT. Simple and clean, no fuss no muss. This look shows the elegance of the knit polo at its purest.

Reiss from ASOS

This was a shot in the dark surprise and I adore it. Each square patch looks to be a terry cotton finish that gives this Reiss cotton knit a rich texture. The metal zip placket was a good choice; had it been the regular button closure the polo would lose its sporty and rebellious personality.

Pique cotton continues to be the preferred fabric for polo shirts, at least from what I can tell. Admittedly, when I first encountered the knit polo the thin delicately constructed loose flowing drape made me sceptical. Once I put it on, however, I saw all the reasons to consider it over pique, jersey, or woven construction. Colours and patterns look vibrant against a knit fabric; the personality quite removed from the other fabrics noticeable to those with a discerning eye.

Speaking of a discerning eye, as I’m writing this I noticed almost all the polo shirts featured, with the exception of Supreme (of course), lack one feature pique polos almost always have: a logo or emblem on the left side of the chest! Just another reason I veer toward knits!

Knit polo, H&M Premium Quality cotton/silk blend

With warmer weather and longer days looming polo shirts will be pervasive like an unspoken uniform worn by the masses. Opt for a knit to subtly stand out from the sea of piques. You’ll be more stylish for it.

(With the exception of the first and last images, I do not own any images featured throughout.)